Real Life Example: Permit Process

In the previous post, I discussed the general process for obtaining a wilderness or backpacking permit.  I mentioned how it can help to get creative as the process, for most parks, is highly competitive with a very low number of permits issued in advance.

This past week, I obtained a highly coveted permit to backpack the Rae Lakes Loop in Kings Canyon National Park.  This 42 (+/-) mile loop is one of the most popular loops in the Sierra Nevada mountains, crossing roaring rivers and streams, past scenic alpine lakes and valleys and over a 10,000+ foot pass. If you want to reserve a permit in advance, 40 spaces are available for each day (20 clockwise, 20 counter-clockwise).  Forty hikers per day entering the loop might seem like a lot, but it’s not .  The Rae Lakes Loop permits get snatched up real quick as people come from all over the world to hike it and view such iconic mountain scenery.

With regards to planning this hike, the first thing I did was find it! In addition to doing general searches online and regularly reading Backpacker magazine, I also own backpacking books I frequently consult to find future trips.  In fact, I think these reference books are often easier than searching online.  The books lay trips out by region and some also have handy charts that allow you to compare the pros of various hikes.   Backpacking books usually tell you the best time of year to go, too, which is very useful when trying to plan a spring hike into higher elevations (but not too high because of the snow).  A simple Amazon search will reveal a myriad of books specific to your region, state or park.

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Winter at Echo Lake on the PCT near Lake Tahoe – time to start planning for summer hikes!

As I perused my books and online resources, such as Outdoor Project, I also began researching permit information on park web sites.  This trip will occur over the Fourth of July week and I knew Yosemite was out of the question; their permits were all spoken for the day they were released.  Too late to get July permits in advance.  I came across the Rae Lakes Loop hike in one of my books and a quick check of the Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks website (the two parks share one website and are commonly referred to as SEKI) confirmed that permits for the entire season would be released in one lump at 12:01am on March 1st.  I still had time!

Once I knew the date they would be released, I put that date and time (3/1/17 at 12:01am) in my calendar with a reminder set for the day before at 6pm. Then I read about their permit process and found applications must be emailed.  Some places prefer fax and it’s important to know what is required at the specific park you are applying to lest your application be denied on a technicality.

Knowing the permit process is highly competitive, I got creative.  This trip will include my husband and possibly two other to-be-determined friends, so we needed a permit for four people.  We were somewhat flexible on our start date and could start on July 2, 3 or 4.  We were also flexible with regard to completing the loop clockwise or counter-clockwise.  As is standard, each permit application form allows you to list your top three options for where and when you want to start.  I completed an application in my name with various combinations of start dates and the two trailheads (clockwise and counter-clockwise).  I then completed a second application in my husband’s name for the same various start dates and locations.  If I had known who our two other hiking partners would be, they could have each filled out an application as well.  Between all of us, we would have had a better chance of securing a permit (remember, you only need one permit per group, not one per person).

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A misty morning training hike in the Marin Headlands of Northern CA

Now, I am generally a rule follower and it always kills me a bit to break the rules or even bend them in any way.  If you ask a ranger, they will tell you not to do what we did because it can create confusion and cause issues.  And this can be true.  I’ve heard of groups whereby more than one person applied for the permit and more than one person confirmed and paid for the permit, not realizing the other person in their group already did that.  This means double the number of spots needed was reserved, meaning someone else missed out.

But I’m super conscious about the possible complications and am diligent about the process.  Don’t get creative unless you are paying close attention!

On Feb. 28th, I got online and found out how to schedule emails for my email provider.  I then drafted two emails, one from me and one from my husband, containing our applications and scheduled them to be sent out at 12:01am on March 1st.   When I woke up on March 1st, the first thing I did was check my sent folder to be sure they got sent.  If I couldn’t schedule the emails to go out at 12:01am, I would have set an alarm and woke up to do it.  Applications are processed on a first come, first served basis and I wanted a permit!  The early hiker catches the worm.

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Typical permit application.

Later that same day –  BINGO! We heard back from SEKI.  Both my husband and I received permits for our first choice date and trailhead!  Even though we only needed one, I felt oddly proud of myself!  I got TWO Rae Lakes permits!  But, I immediately contacted SEKI to let them know we didn’t need one of the permits and they could release those four spots back into the pool for someone else.  I did get a lecture about not having two people in one group applying for a permit.  I felt a twinge of guilt for breaking the rules, but….I had my permit and my trip is a definite go now!

Next Up: Top 5 Reasons to Leave Fido at Home

It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end. ― Ernest Hemingway

 

 

Permits: Love ‘Em and Hate ‘Em

Backpacking permits….sigh.  I have such a love/hate relationship with them.  To be clear, I really do love them and I know how important they are.  But, MAN, are they frustrating!

Backpacking (AKA: backcountry or wilderness) permits are important.  They regulate how many people can enter the backcountry on any given date, which, in turn, minimizes the impact to flora, fauna and the general ecology of the land.  They also serve to limit what could become crowds of backpackers in popular areas.  There are other, fringe benefits to the permitting process, such as enabling parks to have face-to-face time with you when you pick up your permit so they can provide information about rules, current trail conditions, potential dangers, etc.

But the process of obtaining a permit can range from relatively easy (i.e., walk into a ranger station and ask for one) to downright impossible (i.e., spend years trying to obtain a permit to summit the incredibly popular Mt. Whitney).  Either way, it’s important you know what the process is for the area you want to backpack into, and you need to know way in advance. By the way, if you are in a group of two or more people, you only need one permit that lists all of your names.

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Pristine wilderness along the John Muir Trail

Here are some common ways you might obtain a permit, depending on where you want to go:

  • No permit needed.  Just go hike!
  • Walk into a ranger station on your way to the trailhead and ask for one.
  • Reserve a permit in advance.
  • Enter a lottery for a permit.

If you are just now (in the Spring) thinking about a backpacking trip into a very popular, permit controlled area this coming summer, you might be too late to obtain a permit.  For example, at the time I am writing this, most every trailhead in Yosemite National Park has already hit the reservable quota for every single day this summer.  For the days whereby the website says there is still room left, it’s almost always because they have exactly one spot left for that date at that trailhead.  Great for solo backpackers, but not-s0-great for groups of two or more.  If you want to backpack in a place as popular and as protected as Yosemite, you’re going to have to plan way in advance and preferably be flexible on your dates.

Yosemite is tough, but it’s not the toughest.  Just go ahead and try to get a permit to hike Mt. Whitney in the summer months!  Mt. Whitney is on a lottery system.  People might try for years before they finally “win”.

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Permits help protect this gorgeous part of Henry Coe State Park in CA.

Many places offer reservable and walk-up permits.  They will offer, say, 60% of the permits in advance through their reservation process and the other 40% are available on a first come, first served basis at the ranger station the day before your hike starts.  You can request your permit a certain number of days before you want to start.  In Yosemite, you can attempt to reserve a permit exactly 168 days (24 weeks) in advance.  Which means you need to precisely count backwards 168 days from your anticipated start date and apply for your permit on that day. In Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, March 1st is always the start of the permitting process.  Some parks do the counting for you and list a handy chart online that shows start dates and associated permit request dates.

If you can’t manage to secure a permit in advance, or planned your trip last-minute, you can simply show up the day before your start date (sometimes the day of) and there will be a certain number of permits available.

But there’s a process for that, too, and it’s not exactly comfortable.  Those permits are also going to be very desirable and you will not be the only one looking to secure one.  That means you’ll have to research exactly when the walk-up permits become available and then you’ll probably want to be there many hours before that time.

For example, people looking for same-day permits in Yosemite will usually get in line at the ranger station the evening before and “sleep” in line.  Sleep is in quotation marks because you can’t actually set up camp and go to sleep in front of the ranger station (people try)!  You can have chairs.  You can take turns with your fellow backpackers sleeping in the car and man the line in shifts.  When the doors open the next morning, you hope you’ll get a permit.  If not, you had better be flexible with your dates because you’re going to have to repeat the process that night!

Thankfully, you pick up your permit the day before you want to start; if you stood awake in line all night long, you have a full day and night to recover before you start out.  And most parks have a provision allowing for a free night of camping the night before (and sometimes after) your start date.  So you’ll have a place to set up camp and rest.

Sometimes there are other, ancillary permits you will need or forms to fill out.  In California and many other states, you will likely need a campfire permit, even if you only plan to use a stove and not make any fires.  If you have a service animal you plan to take with you on your hike, most parks will need you to fill out a form. If you want to bring a pack animal, you’ll need to fill out different forms for that, or perhaps a different permit. The good news is that most of these secondary permits or forms are easy, guaranteed and often can be done online.

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This graph from the NPS shows the increase in permit applications received by Yosemite over 5 years.

In order to find out permitting information, you’ll need to go to the individual park’s website and look for a link to backcountry or backpacking permits.  Some websites provide a ton of helpful information, such as trailhead quotas, maps showing trailhead locations, alternative trailheads for popular trails, etc.  Some even provide a daily update of which trails are full so you know which dates not to ask for.  If your trip spans multiple parks or wilderness areas, you usually only need one permit from the park where you will start, but double check that, too.

If you decide to try for a walk-up permit, make sure you know when you need to be there to request one and then plan accordingly to get there earlier than that.

Tip: call the rangers! They can give you an idea of how the season is going.  Are people starting to get in line at 4pm?  9pm? Not until early the next morning? Is there a less busy trailhead you could start at whereby the permit will be easier to get?

If you want to backpack into one of the most scenic/popular areas, get creative! If you have four people in your group and you want to hike a 40 mile, popular trail, see if you can apply for two permits starting from two different trailheads that lead to the same main trail.  Two people in your group start in one spot, two in another spot, but you meet up on the first or second day on the main trail and hike together from there.

Try starting on different days.  If you are doing a lengthy trip spanning many miles over many days, consider staggering when people in your group start.  For example, when I hiked the John Muir Trail, I managed to obtain a permit for one person starting at the proper beginning of the trail in Yosemite Valley.  My two hiking partners got a permit for two starting four days later in Tuolumne Meadows.  Sure, they missed the first 20-something miles of a 220 mile trip, but it’s better than nothing!  If they had managed to get a permit for the proper start, but four days after me, we could still have made it work if I had done very few miles the first few days until they could catch up with me.  Or I could have taken a couple of “zero days” (days where you don’t hike at all).  In other words, there are ways to make it work…sometimes,

Generally speaking, you’ll want to start looking at the permit processes for the places you are interested in a year in advance.  Then you’ll know what you need to do and when.  Put important dates on your calendar so you don’t forget!  Be sure to read all the fine print of how to apply for a permit.  Email the permit or fax it? Important to know as some parks will only accept one or the other.  Some parks will let you send your permit request in starting at 5pm the day before you are actually looking to obtain the permit.  They close at 5pm, so they don’t mind if the fax machine starts spitting out applications to be processed the next day at that point

God never made an ugly landscape.  All the sun shines on is beautiful, so long as it is wild. – Atlantic Monthly, January 1869

Next Up: Permits, Part 2 – See How I Just Secured One

 

 

 

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Planning that First Trip: Next Steps

If you are just starting to plan your first backpacking trip and have been following my blog, you’ve chosen the length of your first foray and now you’re wondering what to do next.  After you decide how LONG your first trip will be, the next step is to pick WHERE it will be and also WHEN.

Where and when you hike is important for obvious and not-so-obvious reasons.  The most obvious consideration is the weather.  If you live in a cold environment, backpacking in early spring will be very cold and potentially snowy. Probably not your cup of tea (just yet)!

Another consideration is your current physical fitness level.  If you aren’t exactly in the best shape of your life and you don’t have much time to train, hiking in the Colorado Rockies, for example, might be a tad much.

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Planning out a recent trip.

Your first trip needs to be planned for an environment that will be comfortable for you. I live in Northern California and just completed my first trip of 2016 in March.  I don’t do snow. I knew the Sierra Nevadas and their foothills would be too cold and snowy, so I headed out to the coast of Big Sur.  The weather was quite comfortable for me there.  I also hadn’t been hiking much at that time, so I picked a trail that wasn’t too strenuous or hilly.

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My dog carries his own pack!

I’m starting to think about my second backpacking trip of the year for in May. That one will also NOT be in the Sierras as it can (and does) snow up there through May.  I will likely pick a place more inland or perhaps further south. I can probably get away with the Sierra foothills, but I’ll need to check historical data for overnight lows to be sure my gear (and my skin!) can handle the temperatures.  And since I’ve been training a lot the past few months, I know I can handle more hills, so that will factor into my decision, too.

When it comes to backpacking locations, there are many types to choose from, from national parks and national forests to state parks and county parks as well.  There are also Bureau of Land Management (BLM) areas, federal and state wilderness areas, recreation areas, etc.

For many first timers, a national park is ideal because of the awesome facilities and consistent maintenance. National parks tend to have well-maintained, well-marked trails and lots of information available online and by calling.  Alternatively, BLM areas are often more remote with less information available online and trail systems that may or may not have been maintained any time in the last 100 years.

If you are a dog owner and want to bring Fido, national parks tend to be your enemy as they are decidedly not dog-friendly and most don’t allow dogs on any trails, period.

National forests, on the other hand, are usually incredibly dog-friendly and even allow for off-leash backpacking! Always check the rules while planning your trip – don’t find out the hard way that your trip with your dog has basically been ruined.

Also, don’t hesitate to call your prospective park and talk to a ranger or other representative. I have gotten wonderful advice by calling national parks and forests for information. The people who answer the calls tend to be very friendly and have a desire to help you out. It’s not like calling the DMV!

Last year I was planning a trip for my sister and myself for May. We originally wanted to backpack out to some popular hot springs in the Los Padres National Forest, but by calling and talking to a ranger in advance, I found out it would be way too crowded and unenjoyable for us; solitude was our big priority. Without talking to that ranger, we probably would have just gone to the springs and been let down.

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Solitude at Henry Coe State Park! Just what we wanted.

In addition to park websites, searching for online trip reports is a great way to find information about trails in your area.  People write trip reports after a specific trip to help inform and educate others about that trail at the exact time they hiked it.  In addition to describing the trip, they also include things like the trail conditions, water supply, hazards, difficulty, etc. To find them, simply search online for ‘trip reports backpacking [your state]’. If you already know you want to hike in a certain park, you can do the search that way – ‘trip reports backpacking [name of park]’.

Another great resource is YouTube.  There you can see videos of the places you are considering. As an example, try searching ‘Evolution Valley‘ (part of the famous John Muir Trail) on YouTube – you’ll see a ton of videos. I also like using Google Images to search for photos of places in which I’m interested. One word of advice – don’t overdo it with the videos and photos; you want some of where you are going to be a surprise!

You can also seek out local backpacking clubs and organizations in your area and consult with them. For example, the Albuquerque, NM, chapter of the Sierra Club offers weekly hikes with an experienced leader. If you live in that area, those people would probably be good to know!

Next up: Finding Fellow Backpackers!

All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware. Martin Buber